Today I leave Vienna, a city where time seems to have stopped. Time didn't stop for me, though. I celebrated my birthday here yesterday. But as I move on into another year, it's comforting to know that Vienna remains. A place of smokey cafes, quaint customs, careworn dignity. I'm looking for a picture that sums up this place -- and of course I can't find just one. Would it be St Stephansdom in the sunlight? An ancient walkway at the edge of the First District? A busy shopping street off Mariahilferstrasse? As I write these words, bells chime the hours. I'll miss the bells, too. You can hear them no matter where you are.