Instead, I found a small national cemetery — the third smallest in the U.S., as a matter of fact — located near a Civil War battlefield, Ball's Bluff. You can hike down to the Potomac, which Union soldiers crossed before the battle on October 21, 1861.
The skirmish did not go well for them. The Confederates prevailed, just as they had at the Battle of Bull Run a few months earlier, and a U.S. senator, Edward Baker, was killed. His death is commemorated with a marker, and the small walled cemetery there holds the remains of 54 Union soldiers.
It was a warm day, but the paths were shady, and at the trail's end, the Potomac River was calm and peaceful, a contrast to that day ... and so many others.