Ewwww!

I took the photo because the light was slanting in from the east and turning all the people into dark forms walking. I took it because of the brick pavement and the lamps that looked like gaslights. I did not take it because the walls were covered with bubblegum. In fact, I didn't even venture into the alley.

But after I returned, when I was looking through the photos I took on that trip, I realized that this was the famed Gum Wall of Post Alley, a Seattle attraction that I had so far missed but that the governor insists is his "favorite thing about Seattle you can't find anywhere else." 

I learned that last tidbit from Wikipedia, which also informed me that the Gum Wall became a tourist attraction in 1999, was voted the second most germ-filled tourist attraction in the world a decade later (coming in second to the Blarney Stone) and that more than a ton of gum was removed in 2015 to clean the bricks below. 

Experiencing the gum wall only in a photograph is a funny way to "view" this attraction, but given the general ickiness of the place, perhaps the most sanitary one. 

The Piedmont

Although you might not think it, there are hills around here, inclines that push walkers and cyclists into overdrive. These are not the hills of Seattle rising like cartoon mountains, making a hazard of rolling suitcases and winding the faint-hearted in just one block. These are more subtle gradients, but gradients just the same.

It dawned on me lately while walking up a steep rise that it's the piedmont at work. The land we inhabit here on the western edge of Fairfax County is just past the fall line of the Potomac. Virginia hunt country lies nearby. 

We live in the northern Piedmont region, literally at the foot of the mountains, those mountains being the Blue Ridge, which you can see rising like gray ghosts a quarter mile from here if the weather is clear. 

It's comforting to think, as I chug up a steep grade, that I'm not just out of shape ... I'm hiking the Piedmont.

En Peu de Francais

With a new French-speaking grandson, I find myself dredging up phrases from ancient history — a high school class in French I. Today's is "il fait du vent" ... it's windy.

But how much more trippingly does "Il fait du vent" fall off the tongue? Pretty trippingly, I'd say. 

Apparently, I could also phrase it as "Il y a du vent," but I'll stick with what I learned years ago. Which is way too little to converse with a bright 11-year-old.  

Once again, I'm struck by the paucity of foreign language study in the U.S. -- or at least my language study!

(I met these children on a trip to Benin in 2015.) 

Exorcist Stairs

Even watching the trailer sends chills down my spine, so I will probably not be watching "The Exorcist" this Halloween. But tonight I will be attending class right next to the "Exorcist Stairs," the Washington, D.C. landmark where the movie's final scene was filmed. 

In this scene, Father Miller, who's attempting to rid the 12-year-old Regan of the demon, falls from Regan's window down these narrow steps to his death. According to Culture Trip, the stuntman assigned this task had to fall down the stairs twice to perfect the scene. 

I found the stairs a couple weeks ago after walking past them earlier in my rush to get to class. But once a classmate told me where they were, I made a point to walk them the next week. 

I'm happy to say that I did not fall. But I did huff and puff a little. And I definitely felt a sinister vibe. The stairs are steep and creepy, just as billed, and apparently, if you try to count them, you'll never come up with the same number twice. 

Vienna Walk

I found myself in Vienna last Friday. Not Vienna, Austria (though that would have been nice) but Vienna, Virginia, which is 20 minutes from my house, a place I often pass through on my way to somewhere else.

There is a strange disconnect to walk along streets one usually drives, sort of like flipping a video from regular play into slow-mo. 

There is the house on the corner lot with its split-rail fence and funky upstairs addition — but instead of zipping by it I can see the details, the little upstairs deck with its wrought-iron tables and unmatched chairs.

There are streets whose names elude me at 35 miles per hour: Garrett and Malcolm and Holmes. Solid middle-class names, though their neighborhoods are ones made pricey by their (mostly) large lots and desirable location within walking distance of Metro (back when that mattered). 

I ambled along Center and Lawyers, past Salsbury Spring, which was the only source of water for the area during the drought of 1930. I saw the place with new eyes after learning that, felt a little more connected to this place I (almost) call home. 

Beethoven's Seventh

An open door, a world of light — and a piano. Scarcely a day passes that I don't play it, or wish I had. To touch the keys and realize, I own this thing, I can walk over here and pound out a Brahms Intermezzo or a Bach Prelude whenever I want — well it's been months since I bought this piano but it still thrills me. 

Writing about the playing is something else entirely, though. That's because music is the other, the part that can't be pinned down by precision. It flows where the words won't go. 

A few nights ago, I found a book of music I'd forgotten I had, transcriptions of orchestral works, including the second movement of Beethoven's Seventh Symphony, which I took out and played. 

This was a piece popularized by an impressive scene from "The King's Speech," but whenever I hear it I will always remember the University of Kentucky's Piano Institute the summer before my junior year of high school. There was a young assistant professor there who taught music theory, and for one class he had us sit in a dingy room in basement of the Performing Arts building with big clunky earphones on our ears and our heads down on our arms listening to this music. 

I can’t remember now what lesson we were to take away from that experience. All I know is that in the darkness and with the earphones, the soft dirge of the opening chords built slowly to the crescendo at the piece’s midpoint in a way that made my heart fill near to bursting. And somehow, the other night, I was able to capture a bit of that feeling again ... on the new piano. 

Bernadette's Present

Yesterday there was another first birthday, this one for our precious granddaughter, Bernadette. There were presents and cake and a special meal, a trip to the park with her mom and a visit with her grandparents and aunts and cousin. 

But the big present was still to come. She was going to meet it (him!) right after she and her mom left us at 8 p.m. That would be her new brother, age 11, arriving with his dad on a plane from Benin, West Africa via Istanbul. 

A year and two days ago, Suzanne and Appolinaire were a family of two. Now ... they're a family of four. We're all rejoicing for them.

Mirror of the Moment

So many walks to choose from these days, paths around ponds and through forests. Trails in the morning, chaste of footfall. Paths in the afternoon, littered with leaf bits from all the walking.

On Tuesday I passed two ponds, a bright one with cattails and a shady one rippled as if a fan were blowing on it. 

The water was meditative, brisk, a mirror of the moment. 

From A to Zinnia

The end of a gardening season is a good time to ponder next year's plan ... and next year I'll plant more zinnias. Next year, I'll welcome their hues and warmth into my life. Next year I'll be bolder.

This year, I sowed a few zinnia seeds out front and back. But it was late in the season, a half-hearted attempt. This was the only survivor, a stalk that craned its neck toward the sun and produced one forlorn flower that bloomed a few days ago. 

Next year, I'll start seeds indoors in egg cartons. I'll nurture those babies with sprinkles and grow lights. And when the soil is warm I'll transplant them into sunny spots in the garden I'll prepare soon. 

It's October, spring promises are easy to make — and the imaginary garden has no end of delights.

(Zinnia bouquet photo courtesy Drilnoth, Wikimedia Commons)

The People Behind the Pill

I've always been an earnest, note-taking reader, especially now that I'm in class again. But increasingly more I enjoy the sidetracks and detours of reading, the rabbit holes, the inefficient digressions. 

For the next paper, we're analyzing the public reception of a specific scientific discovery, and I've chosen oral contraception. It's a rich topic, so rich that I'm reading more than necessary. 

For instance, in The Birth of the Pill, author Jonathan Eig tells the stories of the four people who are most responsible for the development of the pill:

There is Gregory Pincus, a brilliant scientist with a flair for publicity searching for compounds in his ramshackle laboratory in Massachusetts; Margaret Sanger, the founder of Planned Parenthood, who coined the term "birth control" and crusaded for women's freedom all her life; Katharine McCormick, heir to the Cyrus McCormick fortune, who funded the experiments; and Dr. John Rock, a gynecologist and devout Catholic who took on his church to help the women in his care.

Though a drug company was involved — G.D. Searle — the pill would not have been created without the  "courage and conviction of the characters involved," Eig writes. The book is a vivid reminder of how human personalities forge the technologies we inherit. It's good to be reminded of that from time to time.

(Photo of Margaret Sanger courtesy Wikipedia) 

Biking the Trail

I spent the weekend hearing tales from Tom and his brothers, intrepid cyclists just returned from a 350-mile bike adventure down the Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal Towpath trails. 

These rails-to-trails paths allow walkers and bikers to make their way from Pittsburg to Washington, D.C. almost completely off-road. They provide a glimpse of the way life used to be, when people journeyed on foot or not at all. 

Tom and the guys hung panniers stuffed with tents and sleeping bags on their bikes, then cycled through forests, along rivers and across iron truss bridges. They told went swimming in the Potomac and heard train whistles in the night.

They passed through Pennsylvania towns like Boston, Connellsville and Ohiopyle (gateway to Falling Water), and Maryland burgs like Cumberland, Paw Paw and Hancock — meeting the same folks along the way.

It was challenging, exhausting, unforgettable. All I can say is ... sign me up!

(Photo: Tom Capehart)

Golden Leaves

Midway through this mellow month, I sit outside at my "deck desk" with the backyard spread before me. The grass looks far less lush than it did a few months ago, the brown patches more numerous. But much effort has gone into that lawn, and I appreciate the grassy patches where they grow.

At the far back of the lot sits the new garden bench, its right side ever so slightly higher than its left, a detail I noticed only after I had posted the photo in a post about its arrival. 

That small imperfection fits the yard, melds perfectly with the weeds and the section of missing fence and the stray patches of poison ivy that are still here despite our best efforts. 

It's not a pristine backyard, but there are birds chirping and ornamental grasses flourishing and golden leaves that catch the light. 

Deep Breathing

Though I try and clear my decks for a true meditation session several times a week, I consider myself a remedial student at best. Worse than remedial, because it seems like it was easier to avoid distractions when I first began than it is now. Not sure why that is!

But in one way this new habit has taken hold, and that is in the practice of deep breathing. My falling-to-sleep routine consists of deep, counted breaths, my falling-back-to-sleep routine too. I have more luck with the former than the latter, but in both areas, I'm definitely better off than I was before.

And then there are those moments. You know the ones I mean: sitting at a long stoplight or in the dentist's chair. Waiting for a file to load. The small anxieties and trials of daily life. 

Since I began meditating — thanks to my former workplace, which still allows me to join their morning meditation group — I use deep breathing all the time. And it almost never fails to still my racing heart. I'll be meditating again in a moment. My shoulders are dropping a notch or two right now in anticipation.

Decoration Inflation

I heard it first at the dentist's office a couple weeks ago. The assistant who was prepping me for a procedure lamented that it was almost October 1. "And you know what that means," she said. "Next thing you know it's Halloween, then Thanksgiving, then Christmas and New Years." 

Of course, she's right. And I probably feel it more than she does, too, being a decade or two older. I notice this holiday speed-up not only on television, where ads for holiday films fill the airwaves, but also in the neighborhood.

It's not that people are lighting trees and plugging in inflatable Santas just yet. But I've noticed a steady "decoration inflation" the last couple of years, driven, I imagine, by what's available to buy. Which means that a home without spider webs in the trees and smiling pumpkins on the lawn looks downright miserly.

At my house, it still looks like summer.: potted geraniums on the front stoop, roses in the backyard, a flowering hosta by the garage. So I have forgone the mums and ornamental cabbage. I haven't even bought a pumpkin yet. Here the fall decor is only what nature supplies: turning leaves and the red berries of the dogwood tree. 

Hand Outstretched

I returned to an autumn landscape: acorns underfoot, leaf litter, the late-summer growth of the climbing rose. I love this second bloom, have written about it before, will always be touched by it.

Today I see the fall roses as a valentine to summer, a hand outstretched with a bouquet.

Here, take this, goes the caption. Take these poesies with you into the next season, the one of chill winds and scant foliage. Let them remind you that spring will come again.

Midway Airport, 10 p.m.

Today's forecast, in fact the forecast through mid-week, is for "mild and murky" weather. Somehow, that suits. After being caught up in the great Southwest Airlines cancellation weekend and arriving home at almost 2 a.m. as a result, I could use some calm and cloudy days to stay home, do laundry and recuperate. 

While I was walking around Chicago's Midway Airport last evening, I thought about how airplanes and hubs have changed the way we think about travel. It's a circular experience rather than a linear one — full of hubs and spokes, more tedious than miraculous. 

Flying west, I was whisked from coast to coast in less than five hours. Coming home, not so lucky. 

First Hill

Seattle is a city of neighborhoods, and I'm getting to know them. Today we toured the Central District (in hard hats, no less!), then lunched in Capitol Hill. Several mornings I've hiked along the waterfront. I also visited Green Lake and Woodland Park. 

But I've spent most of my time in Seattle's first neighborhood, First Hill, also called Pill Hill because of the hospitals here. 

I've trudged up steep grades and sidled through shortcuts. I've spotted fewer tents under I-5 but heard more sirens heading up to Harborview. 

It's an urban neighborhood with all that implies, but there's a gentility beneath the grime. Here are leafy lanes and named apartments buildings, an old German deli on Madison and a cathedral garden behind St. James.

I leave today with the smell of the city in my pores and the pitch of the hills in my calves. And I leave ... from First Hill.

Marine Layer

Sometimes it seems as if you could will away the marine layer that cloaks this city in the morning, that by walking up and down the hills, through parks and intersections, past coffee shops and markets you could build up enough heat to part the clouds and let the sun shine through.

That's the way it felt this morning, as I ambled down Pike to Alaskan Way, and headed north ... toward Alaska.

I didn't get that far, of course. Only to Myrtle Edwards Park. But by the time I hiked back up the hill to the hotel, the sun was shining. 

Vistas

Seattle is a city of vistas: heading west to the bay and the sound, islands on the horizon, ferries and tug boats and freighters plying the deep, unfathomable blue. 

Or looking east, to the lake and Capitol Hill, the muted colors of sky and clouds, small sailboats on the water and a cathedral on the summit. 

Or the most iconic of Seattle vistas, the one with the Space Needle, of course.

March of Time

One of the things I like about travel is that you move through time as well as space. You recover lost springs and leap ahead to crisp autumns. 

On Monday I strolled through the Columbia City neighborhood of south Seattle. It was sunny and cool, and I snapped a photo of a gnarled and mossy tree with crimson leaves. 

My head was still spinning from the flight across the country — an unusual tail wind meant we made the trip west in less than five hours — but it was alert enough to register this place, this northern place, as already ahead of us in the march of time. 

Community of the Ether

A spur-of-the-moment trip to Seattle (I can do these things now!) means that I'll attend class tonight on Zoom rather than in person. While I've had plenty of experience with Zoom meetings the past year and a half (haven't we all?!), I've been driving down to Georgetown for the real thing every Tuesday evening. 

While this seemed slightly terrifying at the start — where will I park? will rush-hour traffic make the trip twice as long as it would be otherwise? — those concerns have largely faded. And the joy of being in a classroom again (even if only one other classmate is there with me, which has been the case the last few weeks) has more than compensated for them.

But tonight, we'll all be on Zoom. We'll be a class, a community, of the ether — as so many communities are these days. 

(Sunset from the Car Barn Terrace, where I am not whiling away time before class tonight.)

In the Can

Not to get too meta here, but writing this blog is largely a seat-of-the-pants enterprise. Most of my life has been tightly scripted until recently, so I've wanted to keep this writing loose and open. 

I've also resisted the temptation to draft a bunch of posts on the weekend to carry me through the first few busy days of the week. The details of the day are my inspiration, and they usually (kinda sorta) pull me through.

But recently, I've found myself writing several posts a day. This may be, probably is, a momentary thing. Inspiration tends to go in cycles, I've noticed. And it is undoubtedly made possible by the gift of time. 

Whatever the reason, though, it's meant that, for the first time in forever, I have a few posts "in the can," as we liked to call them back in my magazine editor days. 

They will come in handy on the days when the muse of daily inspiration is otherwise occupied. 

Morning Thought

For someone who doesn't always sleep through the night, I'm always grateful to wake up, glance at the clock and see that it's truly morning, not some middle-of-the-night hour. (Glancing at the clock is necessary now as the light dwindles. I did it this today since it was still dim at 6:30.)

It strikes me often, though, that the gratitude I feel upon finishing a seven- or eight-hour snooze ought to carry over to the four- or five-hour  variety, as  well. After all, I usually drift back, and when I don't, there is always something relaxing I can do: read or write or pick up a dream thread and follow it back to its source. 

William Arthur Dunkerley said it best: "Thank God for sleep! And when you cannot sleep, still thank him that you live to lie awake!"

To October

It's the first day of a new month, "the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness," a phrase that has stayed with me since I read Keats' "To Autumn" in high school. 

What I don't remember are the later phrases, these sumptuous descriptions: "close-bosom friend of the maturing sun" or "to bend with apples the moss'd cottage-trees" or these lines from the final stanza: 

Where are the songs of Spring? Ay, where are they?
Think not of them, thou hast thy music too,--
While barred clouds bloom the soft-dying day,
And touch the stubble-plains with rosy hue;
Then in a wailful choir the small gnats mourn
Among the river sallows, borne aloft
Or sinking as the light wind lives or dies;
And full-grown lambs loud bleat from hilly bourn;
Hedge-crickets sing; and now with treble soft
The redbreast whistles from a garden-croft,
And gathering swallows twitter in the skies.

I've nothing to add to that!